So, Schwartz’s for a smoked meat sandwich. Yes, you’ll have to line up. It might be quick. It might not be. Early is always better. But it’s the OG and it’s great. Fatty sandwich, and get a smoked meat poutine too.
Beers - go to Dieu de Ciel, Canada’s OG craft beer bar. Just reopened after a loooong reno. It’s legit.
Also go to Pit Caribou - ever changing list of Quebec beers alongside their in-house brews. I had a civilised afternoon drinking large format saisons and sours, and a rowdy night with a big group working through an IPA takeover. Magical spot. The Portuguese chicken shop next door comes highly recommended, but I couldn’t squeeze it in.
Walk up Mount Royal for the views, then walk down and go to the Latin quarter - Sainte Bock for more beers, and whatever food you fancy.
Good - like, GOOD good restaurants -
Mon Lapin is one of my favourites in all of Canada. Like, the BEST neighbourhood restaurant you can imagine. Wildly good food, brilliant service, crazy interesting wine list. I gave them a budget and got 3 options each time we wanted another bottle - got a story and made a decision, and it was all incredible.
Pichai is fancy Thai food - the cooking is SENSATIONAL. Very chilled atmosphere, again great wine list, this place was a last minute find and blew me away.
Pied De Cochon is an intuition. Very rich, old school Quebec food but still with modern flair. It’s a must visit for me anytime I’m in the city. Eat all the foie gras and the get the duck in a can.
Bar George for cocktails and hearty English pub snack. Gorgeous oak panelled room, great drinks, and just a fun spot.
Cloakroom (around the corner) is one of Canada’s best cocktail bars. Tiny, gotta get there early for a seat (maybe 25 total?) but they are SO good at what they do. Drinks only - no food.
Walk around the old city - the building are cool, lots of little art galleries and shops, but lots of tourist trap-y restaurants. Cafe Olimpico (couple different spots) is a local fave for caffeine and cakes.
It’s such a narrow focus of my favourites, and there’s 100 more great spots (shoutout Joe Beef / Liverpool House / that whole group) but it’s a start. Fire any questions over as needed…