When your favorite photo you took is too tall and you cant post on instagram without it getting cropped 
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Professional photographer by trade but I rarely bring my gear to the course. I brought the DSLR to Kiawah Ocean though and was rewarded with this dawn shot
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That is just gorgeous. There is something about the leading line of perfect ball pyramids in that light that is so incredibly satisfying.
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So good!
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I absolutely hate instagramās crop and posting to it. Itās absolutely awful. Anyone find a way to make it work best?
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I have been able to resize photos via the app to a certain point so they donāt show as square in my feed, but they still show as square when browsing all my photos.
The best thing I can think of is to use some kind of editing software (for stupid-simple stuff, I use Pixelmator) and create a large black square and then paste the photo as a layer in front of it. That way the image file will be square but will show your photo at the intended aspect ratio.
Example:
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Thanks, this worked. Wish instagram would give these sorts of options in their own app, itās become so much less focused on photography. I could go to another app&community like flickr but kinda defeats the purpose of sharing my art when my friends canāt see it
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Pretty cool to add the Harlem Globetrotters to the portfolio last week.
Such a fun group of athletes, and they were SO good to all the fans.
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So Iām gonna assume this is the right thread to start this conversation in. I want to spend some time this summer to get into photography, mostly during my solo rounds when the course is dead. My wife purchased a DSLR a few years ago, along with a few lenseās, all of which we never really used (maybe 30-40 actually photos taken).
I was wondering if anyone would be willing to share some resources or software they use for editing or learning the basic skills to actually take decent photos. Ill share what I am getting started with, which Iād imagine is far more then I actually need, but may be slightly outdated by todays standards. Thanks for any info you folks can provide.
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That 55-200 will be your best friend on the golf course.
I really enjoyed the challenge of starting with no knowledge of photography and getting somewhat decent at it, just with research and self taught.
I would start researching what aperture, shutter speed, and ISO is. Learn how those three work together and get that. Once you understand the technical side of that, then you can be creative and set up shots. Rule of 1/3rds is another good thing to understand when framing.
As for editing, I think Nikon comes with a RAW software that you can do some basic editing in without having to pay for it, but donāt quote me on that. Other than that, Adobe Lightroom is a popular one, I use Capture One and like it pretty good. Affinity Photo is another free one Iāve heard about, but know nothing about it.
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Set it to Av (aka aperature priority mode). Set everything else to Auto. Set the types of images to jpeg initially. Later on you can shoot raw (which will allow you to do all sorts of edits in Lightroom). For bright landscape scenes you can set your aperature at anything you want really. If you want a wide depth of field where everything from the foreground to the background is in focus set your aperature at 8 and above. For portraits where you want a blurred background, set your aperature at the lowest possible. Shooting golf courses, mix it up with every type of shot, wide angle for wide landscape scenes, telephoto so 100mm or more for green complexes (it has the effect of compressing the scene and exaggerating contours eg front and back bunkers will look like theyāre right on top of one another). For portraits shoot at 70mm or more to avoid your subjectās nose being distorted/too wide. Initially, break landscape scenes into thirds. Then muck around with different angles and perspectives. Once you are confident with aperature priority you can experiment with shutter priority and manual. Shutter priority/ manual can be helpful with scenes at night or in darker rooms.
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Thanks for the replies, Iāll start diving into everything tonight.
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High school digital photography teacher here. Feel free to send any newbie questions my way- happy to help out (promise to not treat you like a punk kid). Might even be able to make some of my curriculum available if thatād be helpful. Tons of photography-learning videos on YouTube, but youāre getting some good advice here already. Exposure triangle is a fundamental. Av is a good way to go, Lightroom is awesome, golf courses tend to shine more zoomed in to compress the distance. Play around with layering your composition to have multiple interest points in the fore, mid, and background, etc. Shoot in RAW. Use autofocus and choose your focal point closer to you rather in than far away if you want a lot in focus. Try shooting around f12-16 if you want a lot in focus. IDK- thatās a lot. Post your shots and ask for feedback! Happy shooting!
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Iāve dabbled with landscape photography for few years now as a hobby. Best advice I have is get out there and try it and learn about editing as that is where the magic happens in most cases.
Nick Page is one of my favorite photographers and he has some helpful Youtube videos.
Hereās 3 of my personal favorites that Iāve taken over the years:
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OK so I got a question on landscape (especially golf courses) and lenses. Background, I know only just a little about how this all works, and very much consider myself a beginner getting back into after about a 15 year hiatus from a camera other than my phone.
I have the Fuji T30 II (gang gang @jsg_nado) with a wildly versatile 18-135mm lens that I think is perfect first lens for me now to travel with one small camera and one small lens and offer a ton of variety. Howeva ā 27mm isnāt the wide angle effect Iām looking for on these landscape shots, so my question is as followsābecause Iām not a professional and this is mostly for me and for now at least I donāt want to buy another camera of the full frame variety, how low do I need to go?
The real question is basically what am I giving up in the 12-14mm range versus 15mm, because the 8-16mm is a red badge and obviously about twice the price of the 10-24. I donāt know a ton about this stuff obviously because I have no clue if those 3mm are worth it. Iām happy to pay up if so, but donāt want to be wasteful if the answer is no under any circumstances. TYIA
PS I realize on these ASP-C sensors most purists would ask, why on earth would you be shooting landscapes non full frameā¦ but alas, i love my t30 ii
PPS, I have considered a prime, but i love being able to adjust framing with a zoom because often I am shooting and playing so donāt always have time to be changing my positioning as much as one would like to. In the long run I might consider a prime that I have for when Iām solely shooting, but for now I def want some sort of wide angle zoom.
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So one question I had for all the cali kids who go to school in unreal areas (looking at you UCSB), how the f do you ever get anything done??? Iād never go inside
Buy used. The lenses will be much cheaper. The 10-24mm is Ā£389 used here in the U.K. If you canāt find a good model used, and you want super wide ie 14mm and less, then Iād go for the widest prime you can find whether from Fuji, Tokina etc
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I know 10-18mm is often recommended for landscapes, but Iāve never felt much need to go below even 24mm (on a full frame camera, though).
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I would go with the 10-24mm. Unless you really want to pay the extra money for the 8-16, but I donāt think youāll miss the 2mm on the wide end and would appreciate the extra 8mm on the zoom end a lot more.
Many photographers Iāve researched when buying the wide angle love the 10-24 so I was very comfortable going that route. The 8-16 is also much heavier, which you may not want to carry around with you while golfing
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